I had possibly the most traumatic bus ride in History. We had bought tickets to Hoi An by night bus from Phu Quy, the hotel back in Nha Trang. There were 3 prices USD $11, $13 and $15. For the most expensive price we were guranteed more comfotable seats and a toilet to use during the trip. The name of the bus company is Hanh Cafe. Do NOT use them if you're ever in Vietnam. I fell asleep soon after the journey started and missed the first pit stop. So a couple hours later I awoke as I needed to use the restroom. I go up to the toilet, the door is locked and a sign over it saying "Please do not use toilet, else your journey will smel bad"........WTH! Ok, so I go to the driver and ask when the next pit stop is because nature calls and he said 15minutes. I figure I could handle 15 minutes, and finally after a fe more miles the bus stopped. I stepped out of the bus and realised I was standing in pitch black darkness, some shrubbery in front of me, some dirt and thats about it! I was scandalized!!! The optimistic side of me believed that the bus driver couldn't be so cruel to have a little girl pee in the middle of nowhere, so I asked him where the toilet was. He pointed towards these shacks with tin roofs and no walls a little ways down. I figured there MUST be a toilet there! So I walked towards the shacks when all of a sudden these dog started barking at me and the owners of the shack woke up. Caught in an awkward situation I acted out the motion of having to go to the bathroom. They were like "ohhhhh!!!" realizing my dilemma and pointed to the back. Relieved, I walked to the back only to be dismayed at the realization they do business in the backyard as all I saw was a tree, dirt and some shrubbery. I just couldn't bring myself to do it and ran back to the bus and told the bus driver I couldn't go and he pointed commandingly to the shrubbery. I boarded the bus even more trumatized. As I sat in my seat all I could think of while trying not to cry was my very full bladder, the fact I was 20 and about to piss my pants and how badly the bus would smell if its riders were pissing in their seats instead of the toilet we can't use.

Another 15 minutes pass by before the bus stopped again. Hoping we had a better potty situation, Henrik came along with me. What a surprise when we stepped out of the bus and there was nothing but dirt, darkness and shrubbery. And this time, the bus driver was happily peeing in the bushes a few feet from the bus. Lost at what to do, wishing I was wearing a diaper, we walked towards these 2 brightly lit stores selling oil. The frst one we approached weren't very nice but the second family was very sweet, happy and welcoming. They motioned me through a door after realizing my predicament. I went though the door and looked around. There was NOTHING but dirt, fence and shrubbery! Its times like this I wish I had a gun. I looked around, desperate and had no choice- it was either do or embarass yourself more by stinking up the bus. Halfway through my pee behind a shrubbery, Henrik comes storming through the door with a flashlight the nice people let him borrow. I was caught like a deer peeing in the headlights. =.= I finished all I could (I couldn't go all the way cuz I was too uncomfortable) and we headed back to the bus. As we were boarding, Henrik told the bus driver he was stupid for not stopping at a gas station (which there were A LOT of, and even some nice, brightly lit ones on the way). We still have no idea why this business operate the way they do- empty promises and all, but I've never been more traumatized in my life! Never again!!

Note: Awhile later while searching the internet, I cam across tons more people with complaints about this bus company. So, don't say I didn't warn ya!

Day 7

The bus arrived early in the morning infront of a hotel where they started bringing our bags in (probably had some sort of arrangement with the hotel I'd guess). However, we had decided to go to a different hotel Thien Nga, reccomended by the Lonely Planet guide (Yea, I know like we didn't learn our lesson right LOL) a couple streets away. However, this time there were absolutely no regrets. This was by far my favorite hotel that we'd stayed at in Vietnam. The staff was helpful an polite, the room was spacious, lightly decorated, clean, there was a bathtub in a big bathroom and a balcony to complete the set. The price was around $20 a night again but unlike Phu Quy, it came with free breakfast (which was pretty delicious in my book!), had a row of WORKING computers and there was even a pool!*

After some rest and a good long shower, we headed out for lunch. We were extremely hungry and stopped at the closest restaurant we could find. We both had local Hoi An specialties! Baby had the beef noodles and I had Co Lau, a dry noodle dish with pork and crunchy things inside. Both were amazingly delicious! If you ever get to Vietnam, you'd definitely have to try!

When our tummies were full, we started exploring the city. Hoi An- which once had the biggest Harbor in South East Asia-was a huge contrast to the previous 2 cities we'd been to. The mostly 1 floor buildings were old, but cute with french, Dutch, Chinese and locally inspired designs. Majority of the stores were shoe makers, paintings, lanterns, decorations and endless ammounts of tailors!!! The people were also very different, there was no begging, pestering and (as far as we know) no obvious attempts to cheat us. They were more friendly and laid back.

We visited the famous Japanese bridge (also known as Chùa cầu) . The Entrance was guarded by a pair of dogs- one on each side- and the exit was guraded by a pair of monkeys. In the middle of the bridge was a small buddhist temple. Chùa cầu is the only known covered bridge to have a Buddhist pagoda attached to it.

The sun had no mercy on us as we contiued our exploration around Hoi An. The river was a beautiful sight though I wished it wouldn't be wierd if I just jumped in it to cool off lol. We found a vegetable market. It was messy, loud, colorful and interesting all at the same time. There were many things we couldn't recognize.

We went to a couple temples (this one was "free visit" others you had to buy tickets for....but I don't know why since they're all pretty much the same inside =X). The first temple was old with the designs we've come to expect from visit temples. There were also incense burning but no one around. I liked this temple though because lying in the middle of the floor was a mamma kitten and a baby kitten! It was so cute!!! It was pouncing and running about but would check back every few seconds to check if its mom was still nearby and in sight.

The second temple was like a twin of the first. Painted in blue, this one had more statues of gods/goddesses and creatures. It think its a little creepier with so many scary looking statues. No kittens here.

Tired of the abuse from the sun, we went back to our hotel for a swim! The pool was heaven sent! The water was the perfect temperature for such a hot day! (Whats cooler than cool?!-Ice cold!) And the hotel allowed us to put drinks and whatever else we ordered on our room tab! (which was another thing Phu Quy could use) It was much more convenient than carrying a wad of cash around or running out of cash for that matter (hotel rooms could be charged to card.....except for Phu Quy for some retarded/ strange reason)!

When it got darker, we ventured back to the city for some food! We chose a small restaurant by the water so we could watch the river as we eat. The restaurant had a little higher prices and extremely small portions than we hoped but I think its due to the fact theyre in the Lonely Planet guide. haha. Anyway, we had the local specialty fried wontons and steamed dumplings. The wontons were pretty delicious- basically fried wonton paper with stirfry on top, but I can't remember if I was fond of it our not. I guess it didn't really make and impression on my palate!

The night was a much better time to go through the city. The stores were still open and lanterns were turned on giving the city a twinkly glow. We booked a cooking class for the next afternoon as reccomended by a couple we met at the pool! (Though I must add, that we were already thinking about it but their good experience confirmed it!)

Getting hungry again as our first dinner was not satisfactory, we had Second dinner! We found this cute little food court-like place with little specialty stalls next to eachother. I had the local specialty wontons again-but this time in soup form! baby had beer. Finally! I was satisfied! =D

We walked to the other side of the river, crossing a dangerous wobbly looking (and feeling!!! =0) bridge while we digested. Hoi an was so beautiful with its dim glow coming from its little buildings. We passed by a few artsy statues and saw the river lit up with animal shaped lanterns! I love lanterns!!! I am such a night creature lol.

We crossed back over to the lively side of Hoi An and had a drink at one of the street side stalls. I had really gross lemonade and baby had iceed coffee. Of course we got crazy ripped off when the lady told us she used "bottled water ice". She might as well have said the ice had flakes of gold in it! Ok, since its vacation we close an eye and pay.

Our last stop for the night was at a restaurant/bar called Tam Tam Cafe! Because we couldn't find the cafe we wanted, we assumed it closed down and went to Tam Tam Cafe as a second option. And Boy, its almost a good thing we couldn't fnd the other. It was a large 2 story restaurant/bar with a balcony. The second floor where we spent our time, was more of a lounge area with a pool table and all. I had a delicious milkshake and baby had beer to finish our night. I would also like everyone to know, that I whoop ass at pool! woot woot!!

Day 8

We woke up early for a good breakfast at our hotel and headed into town to get Henrik measured for a suit! We chose Yaly, for its good reputation, plus it was reccomended by a friend. We were totally confident in our decision after our tailor had told us she just had repeat customers from 4 years before! The couple had returned and spent $40 on mens shirts and $400 on his wife! hahaha There was a huge range of cloth to choose from. Suits ranged from $75 to $200+ and shirts ranged from $20 onwards. Baby chose a cashmere suit (I picked dark purple for the inner lining!! hehe) and a shirt. All together he spent almost $400 I think *gasp* cheap! and the amazing part is that the tailor asked us when we needed it done by and we said we were leaving the next evening. She then told us to come in for a fitting at 5pm!! that gave her like 6 hours to finish a whole suit and shirt! lol powerrr!

With an hour to kill before our cooking class, we walked around the city. On the way we got some custom made sandals for me!! hehe the lady took a sheet of paper and traced my foot! I took about 3 sandal styles I liked and mixed and matched the parts I favored! From the braided straps to the ankle ties! It was so fun! That too was to be ready the next morning. Woot woot!

At about 1:30pm we reached the Red Bridge Restaurant/Cooking School that hosts the cooking classes. After a welcome drink, we were gathered by our group leader into a group of about 8 people (us included) and headed off to the market! At the wet market we had been to the day before-it was much more interesting when our tour guide knew about the local fruits and vegetables. He told about how fresh produce come in twice a day, so people shop twice a day to keep their meals fresh!


After the market tour, we were ushered into a boat. We rode along the river watching the Vietnamese people go about their daily lives. Halfway though the boat tour, we saw a man dragging a log in the water. Our tour guide had a brief conversation with him and laughed. Curious, we asked what the man was doing and our tour guide explained....its easier to move logs to his house through water than on land. Smart man I'd say!

Finally, we reached our destination! combined with another small group, we alight from the boat and see a charming buildin infront of us. White table cloths, and further up tables and lounge chairs. We were led to the back by our guide as he showed us the herbs they grew there. There were many different kinds of herbs-none that I can remember =x

After the garden tour, we were led to a huge pavillion next to the water with a staw roof. A long row of stoves were lined up towards the back, empty tables with a sink to the side and 2 rows of chairs infront of a long table where it was apparent a chef would show us how to make food. We took our seats and as soon as we got started, Henrik was called up to help with the first dish! The first dish was Shrimp salad in a carved pineapple. We learned about 3 other dishes: fresh rice paper spring roll, shrimp rice pancake and a vegetable claypot stew. It was so much fun! The chef was good humored, the helpers were polite and we got to eat the food we made! hehehe

To finish off our cooking class, we were taught to make decorations. The decorations looked simple enough-a cucumber fan and a tomato rose. However, I think I need A LOT more practice before one can even consider my creations as decorations. LOL (unless you're some kind of modern art freak!)


We ate our last claypot dish in the restaurant we first saw as we arrived. It was accompanied by a scrumptious steamed fish (we weren't taught how to make it but the recipe was included in the recipes they let us bring home).

After lunch, the group relaxed by a pool next to the restaurant. We were taken back into Hoi An by bus as the water had grown too shallow for boats that evening- which I didn't mind because I saw some water buffalo!! Red Bridge Restaurant and Cooking School was definitely worth the price (USD $25/pax) and especially the enjoyable experience! It was so much fun, plus we learned and ate new things!

*Note: If you ever decide to go, there is also a longer 'Deluxe Tour' for a higher price. But we thought the half day tour was sufficient!

We got back to town at about 6pm. Henrik went for his fitting and made little adjustments before they were to be picked up at 9 in the morning! We had a rest back at the hotel (including a dip in the pool hehe), then had a nice stroll to dinner. Just next to the little food court we had "second dinner" the night before, was its competitor food court! Designed in the same fashion of stalls next to each other, behind long rows of tables-we decided to give it some business too! We ordered a stir fried spinach dish, a chicken with green bean stir-fry (which hardly had chicken) and fried springrolls accompanied by rice. yummm! Everytime I had springrolls, my love for them grew deeper!

For our after dinner drinks, we decided on Tam Tam Cafe again! This time we sat downstairs and had some cake to go with! I had the most good-awful drink that was so sour it made my lips shrink 2 sizes, but nothing can't be fixed with a little sugar! (In this case half a cup of sugar =x)

Day 9

We woke up in the morning prepared for another motorcycle ride! Just outside our hotel was a motorbike rental stand. The lady was friendly enough and when we told her we were attempting to go to My Son, she gave us a business card who's establishment had free parking! This motorcycle was manual instead of automatic like at Nha Trang, but baby managed!! After heading into the city to pick up the suit and the shoes, we were off!

Our ride was about an hour long to My Son. On the way, we enjoyed the beautiful scenery of endless rice paddies. Finally with sore butts, a bad farmers tan and directions from some locals, we reached My Son! We parked at a restaurant- which in my opinion was a shack on cement- and got a much needed drink.

My Son is a cluster of abandoned and partially ruined Hindu Temples constructed between the 4th and the 14th century A.D. by the kings of Chiêm Thành. The temples are dedicated to the god Shiva. The temples and tombs of My Son are often compared with other historical Temples in Southeast Asia such as Ang kor Wat and Ayutthaya. UNESCO recognizes it as a world heritage site as it is an example of evolution and change in culture and as evidence of an Asian civilisation which is now extinct.


We walked up to the site in stifling heat, bought tickets and briefly viewed their small museum. After we crossed a big bridge, there were vans ready to take us to the temples. Just a 5 minute ride, we were let off at a large clearing with a gift store and drink store. We had to walk the rest of the way probably because they need to preserve the area and it probably sn't so safe to drive around after the hidden mines of the Vietnam War.

The individual temples were all crumbling. Nevertheless, one could tell the hard work those builders had to endure to build such withstanding, detailed buildings. The larger remaning temples with the shelter still intact had artifacts inside. One of the buildings was pretty frightening looking as it had modern supports all over it because it was unsafe to go near. lol

After the long, tiring, sweaty trek, we were driven back to the bridge we encountered at the begining of our visit to My Son. And we reached our motorcycle just in the nick of time! The sudden rain clouds stormed the entire shelter! The wind howled and the water collected in the streets. With nothing better to do, we ordered some lunch. The man/owner of the establishment was just the most friendly, good natured man ever. He let me sit in the back (where they slept on nothing but a bed frame and thin mattress) away from the cold rain when he saw me shivering. He was attentive, helpful and sweet. Though most people would say he was being nice because we're ordering food, that wasn't the feeling we got. I think he was just one of those people who are happy with everything they have though it isn't much, and seeing people like that is always so humbling. They served a mountain of rice for us each though not a lot of chicken. I seriously think vietnamese people don't like meat!!! When the rain stopped a little, we bought raincoats and were off! We had a plane to catch!

It was soooo cold on the ride back to Hoi An! You'd never have thought that just a few hours before it was hot enough to cook eggs in the sun! We rode through ankle deep waters and it felt so dirty! At one point of the ride, we stopped at the fork of a road to see in which direction we should go. The second I turned my head, I saw one motorcycle crash into another taking both of them and their riders down! It was the first motorcycle accident I've ever witnessed! I didn't know how to react and watched all 4 people-bikers and their passengers- get up and brush themselves off. Figuring they were alright, we continued our journey back to Hoi An.

With about 2 hours to spare, we grabbed a quick dinner of Cao Lau and Pho at the foodcourt we had grown rather fond of. As a parting "celebration" we got a banana rice pancake for dessert! Yumm!!! It was SO amazingly delicious! Hoi An was definitely my favorite place in Vietnam.



*We bought so much water on this trip! It was so incredibly hot! Baby drank like an elephant at a watering hole. I got dehydrated because I didn't want to have to go to a bathroom in that place unless it was guranteed clean. LOL

*Things our hotel could've improved:

• leave the balcony lights on later than 10pm (Though we could open the curtains for room light I think balcony light would've served better.
• Get a new tv for the room or talk to the cable guy lol

I'm still impressed though. I'd definitely go back to this hotel. It was a great find!